Never a Primer Needed. Once Coat System. CA Residents Click Here. Estimate Shipping. No primer is needed and is very easy to apply with a long nap roller. In order to achieve your mil rate we suggest chalking off your roof into separate 10X5 areas or 50 sq ft. When you are done "filling-in" each area; you should be done with a gallon worth of the product.
Caulk Rubex caulk has been field tested to be compatible with RvRoofMagic and will not void the guarantee Coverage per tube is 15 linear feet. Butyl Tapes. Billing Information. Please wait Once Coat Application. Never A Primer Needed! Rubex caulk is used to reinforce areas around your vents and AC units and around the perimeter of your unit. Any gaps should be filled with the butyl caulk to prevent the roof coating from creating a void in the crack.
Butyl Tape 3 in x 10 ft Coverage: 3 in x 10 ft. Our Butyl tape is used to reinforce any separation in your seams. It is a two-sided sticky tape and you will apply the product directly over the sticky side.The number one cause of broken RV roof is water damage.
Once rainwater or melted snow penetrates the structure of your RV roof, you have to inspect it as soon as possible. Otherwise, it will cost you a considerable amount of money. The very first thing you need to do is clean the RV roof correctly and intensively. Follow these below steps:.
How to Repair an RV Roof
Check to see the real situation of the broken part. If the OSB part is heavily damaged, for example, water soaked wood, large leaking holes, you better off replacing the broken part with a new piece.
Just measure carefully to get the new one match perfectly into the whole roof. Normally, the rubber roof will get lifted off, so technically, after cleaning and drying the surface, replacing necessary OSB patch, your challenge is rollback the rubber roof.
An RV with its rubber roof lifted off via www. Regular contact cement is a very powerful liquid which will attach your rubber roof to the OSB. It is advised to put a coating layer on both the OSB and the rubber roof. Let the surfaces dry to the tackiness, and then they will stick well. Of course, you must prepare a brush to paint the contact cement. To make sure the border look nicer and will not be lifted off again, I suggest that you apply a layer of sticking micro seal bond.
One important note is once you stick the bond to the roof, it is nearly impossible to remove, so be carefully and do it slowly. Watch this below video to see how to repair an RV roof when it is partly water-soaked, and its rubber roof is lifted off. This below procedure of patching a hole in RV roof can be applied to any RV roof. The purpose of cleaning the roof is to make sure the repair would stick to the surface at maximum level, especially after you just remove a device or thing on the RV roof, and leave holes on it.
Start with mineral spirits; you should use a piece of cloth to wide off the roof. Be advised that this technique is suitable for a fiberglass roof only, another rubber roof is more dedicated than fiberglass.
Hence, you should refer to the manufacturer to get precise cleaning liquid. After that, finish the cleaning process by using the auto polishing compound.
If the holes are small, you just need to apply directly dicor self-leveling lap sealant to each hole until they are all covered. A tube of dicor is recommended to have on board for periodical inspection since, after a long time of exposure to weather and sunlight, cracks will appear. In the case of a larger hole, you have to prepare an extra piece of cover which is made of metal and large enough to patch the hole. By doing this, water cannot get in under any circumstances.
This step is optional since, after step 2, all the holes are maintained well enough to keep water leak into the roof. However, it would be better to add another layer of eternal bond tape on the holes to prevent any cracks might have in the future.
Use a small roller to apply pressure to the eternal bond in order increase the adhesive, and make it permanent. Make sure to let the dicor dry overnight before taking this final step. Rubberized Leak Stopper. Fiberglass Yarn Screen Repair Tape.
As always, before going to the main repairing stage, you need to clean the broken surface by using a brush and a hand towel. Later, a flat scraper is good to take off any loose tar or patching material. The right repairing material here is the Rubberized Leak Stopper which costs you a cheap price for a gallon but works very effectively.Randy is a lifelong lover of the outdoors and especially camping.
His articles are intended to help the RVer save money and time on repairs. Fortunately for us DIY types, there are many used or classic travel trailers and other types of campers for sale that merely need a little fixing up and modernizing to make them comfortable and safe for our families to enjoy.
This article describes the renovation of an 86 Nissan Nicky mounted camper body that had only been used for a couple of camping trips. The engine and interior of the truck itself were in great shape, with only 38, miles on the odometer.
The camper body itself, however, was in very bad condition due to a roof leak which caused much deterioration to the interior. Damage from leaks is a very common problem in old RVs. As you can see by the photos, the ceiling and walls, as well as the sink and stove area, were all badly damaged. The structural integrity of the camper walls and ceiling were at risk also, as the wood used for support was badly rotted and would have to be replaced to restore stability to the RV itself.
We started off by giving the little unit a thorough examination in order to make our materials list. The secret to doing a quick and reliable repair job on any travel trailer or motorhome is to plan ahead and save trips to the hardware store. At least when you remodel a motorhome instead of a house, you can buy your materials in smaller quantities: wood paneling, screws, nails, glue.
Plumbing : Many older RVs may be updated by using the newer flexble tubing plumbing to replace old copper or PVC water lines. One advantage of flexible pipes is that they stand up to the vibration of a moving vehicle. As a rule, an old toilet is easier to replace than to fix.
Electrical system : A new breaker box with more breakers is also suggested for very old travel trailers, because microwave ovens and other new appliances may require more amps than the old breaker panels were designed for. Adding extra volt receptacles in the kitchen area is a good idea; it's better than having to run extension cords across the limited floor space in most RVs. An old three-way evaporation refrigerator can be replaced by a new efficient volt model as described in this article on RV repair for great savings.
We began at the top, to see where the water that had caused so much trouble was coming from. We removed the ceiling assembly and hold-down bracket from the Coleman rooftop AC unit so we could better access the roof and ceiling damage.
One of the bolts securing the rooftop AC to the hold-down bracket was loose and this may have been the cause of the leaking roof. But the damage was so bad that it was difficult to determine exactly where the leak originated on the roof. We did determine that the roof seams were bad as well, and that before we began other repairs we should reseal and coat the roof to prevent even further interior damage. This camping unit, like many made today, relied on Styrofoam panels for much of the roof and walls, with this particular model using wood panels glued to the Styrofoam to give structural support.
As we describe below, we used luan as a replacement. This added support would keep the AC unit from bouncing and reopening the roof leaks. The water damaged the counters and other parts of the kitchen. What's more important, it damaged the wood corner supports, which were behind the kitchen cabinet and in the bathroom near the stove. We needed to access and replace these rotten corner wood supports. Furthermore, we wanted to replace the floor with new plywood.
So we removed the stove and sink from the cabinet, as well as the cabinet itself. All wiring over the stove was detached until after the job was completed.Daniel Thompson began writing about analytical literature in He has written informative guides for a hardware store and was published at an academic conference as part of a collaborative project. Strengthening existing roof rafters is a difficult process that often requires professional help.
If you have a stick frame roof, there are a few basic techniques that you can use to strengthen your rafters. Snow increases the overall weight of your roof, adding to the forces acting on your rafters. Increasing the thickness of your rafters increases your rafters' ability to withstand sagging. Reinforcing the connections between the rafters and the walls will help prevent your roof from collapsing. Measure the thickness, width and length of the rafters in your home and purchase one piece of framing lumber of the same size for every two rafters in your attic.
Measure and cut each piece of framing lumber into two boards measuring one-third and two-thirds the length of your rafters. Carry the cut lumber and framing supplies into the attic. Place a long piece of framing lumber alongside the rafter so that the narrow edge is flush with the underside of the roof deck and the bottom reaches the ceiling joists.
Drive a nail into either end to hold the board in place. Place a short piece of framing lumber against the rafter above it so that the two boards form a continuous line. Fasten the framing lumber to the rafter using nails driven through the lumber and into the rafter.
Use at least 8 nails to secure the framing lumber to the rafter at both ends. Use nails that are long enough to completely penetrate the framing board and at least half the thickness of the rafter behind it. Repeat this process for the rafter on the opposite side of the roof and every other pair of rafters in your attic until half of the rafters in your attic are reinforced. Make sure that each piece of framing lumber is flush with the roof deck above it.
Locate the places where the ceiling joists in your attic meet the rafters. Drive additional nails through each rafter and into the adjacent ceiling joist. Avoid driving nails within an inch of each other or an inch of the board's edge to prevent cracking or splintering the wood. Cut a piece of plywood 4 inches wide and a foot long for each rafter you reinforced. Place a cut piece of plywood over the place where the two sister beams meet and fasten it to each beam with nails.
Repeat this step for each reinforced beam. The number of nails that you use to connect the framing lumber to the rafters directly impacts the amount of strength they add to your roof.
Adding a bead of wood glue between the framing lumber and the roof deck ensures they are in close contact and increases your roof's resistance to strong winds. Reinforcing your rafters does not increase the load bearing capacity of the walls supporting your roof. Before you reinforce your rafters, consult a professional engineer to determine the best method for strengthening your roof.
Pin Share Tweet Share Email. Heavy snowfall can damage or collapse a roof with weak rafters.Welcome to BestMaterials.
We are constantly adding new resources for you to use in repair of RV roofs and roofs built with EPDM rubber or metal and others. These solutions also apply to commercial buildings, trailers, patios, and many house boat repairs. We welcome your RV ideas and solutions too.
For coating your RV rubber roof with a premium bright-white light traffic capable roof coating, we recommend RoofMate HT is a high performance Elastomeric Roof Sealant for light traffic areas available in handy 1G pails and larger. For RV or trailer roofs and seam repairs, we recommend EternaBond. RoofSeal is also available in Gray and Black. It is an aluminum faced version of RoofSeal. For a light-traffic roof, we recommend Roofmate HT high tensile.
It cures harder to take light foot traffic. We now offer complete EPDM repair kits using the best products available. No need to worry about your EPDM repair project! Each job is different, but generally you just need to have some simple tools.
The roller is the most important tool. It is critical to "roll-in" and flow the EternaBond adhesive. Surfaces must be immaculately clean before applying any type of bonding agent. It is important to minimize jagged and rough edges on your EPDM membrane. A scraper or joint knife is used to remove old unwanted caulking. The best tool for this is a utility blade or scraper. When using EternaBond tape as well as all other roof repair productsall traces of silicone sealants or waxes much be removed.
M1 sealanta polyether sealant, is recommended. Brush dirt off and out from under repair area. Clean all dirt and oxidation from the roof surface. The exact method depends on roof material and type of contamination or oxidation.
For small repairs to EPDM use solvent and a rag and scrub the repair area.
How to Repair an RV Roof in Easy Ways
Eternaclean spray cleaner and a rag is also good to remove contamination. If you are re-roofing large areas you can usually power wash then aggressively scrub surface using a stiff street broom keep scrubbing until the roof is completely white again. Seams are best adhered with EternaBond DoubleStick. It's the best, and can be applied without pre-priming.
When applying RoofSeal over large areas it is recommended to have a minimum two inches of overlap seam 2" on each side of the repair area, using 4" tape. EternaPrime prepares the surface into an adherent platform for the EternaBond tape to adhere to. This section contains situations you will commonly encounter while repairing or replacing EPDM rubber roofing membrane.
Clean the repair area. Remove any silicones. Clean surfaces as above. Apply M1 sealant to any recesses and tool to a level surface. Let caulk cure. Add fasteners as needed to re-enforce the repair area.After a windstorm ripped the canvas covering from my portable shelter, I replaced it with corrugated steel roofing.
If more protection is required the sidewalls could be covered the same way. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
This is a closeup of a strap attaching a nailer to the pipe frame of the building. The straps are cut to the required length from a roll of perforated pipe strapping and attached with heavy duty wood screws. The top end of the anchor strap hooks over a bolt through a pipe strap wrapped around the building frame. I let roofing overhang the sidewall in case I decide to sheet up the walls too.
The structure is still portable if you have enough friends to help you move it. Question 3 months ago on Step 5. Thank you so much I knew I wasn't cra cra when I tried to describe to my adult child what I wanted to do. I am going to add plywood panels to the sides to be able to store stuff! Not like expensive stuff but like those two extra coffee makers, garden wagon, Christmas tree. Things that can't be left out in the elements, but you need every so often.
Thanks again. Thank you for this instructable! I am recycling an old shelterlogic canopy frame and will be using it for an all year around chicken coop. The shelter I build needs to stand up to lots of snow and wind, as that's all the weather we ever seem to have here in NL.
Thanks for taking time out of your busy life to post such a great tutorial! My parents bought two of these canopies as a covering for their new mini Dauchshund pup's dog cyclone fence paneled dog kennel.
Thanks to your kindness, your method, and terrific instructional, I believe the dog will have a dry kennel, and we won't be as worried about any possible snow loading, should we receive any this winter. We really appreciate your efforts. My father's 79 now, and 54 years here. Thanks again, be safe always, and best regards! Question 7 months ago on Introduction. Reply 10 months ago. Skip the concrete in the poles. It will rust out the metal poles faster.
Thank you for sharing this. It's exactly what I need to get my creative juices flowing.
I have some spare metal roofing and a metal gazebo frame. I'm going to set to work on it. Thank you. We have a portable metal shed frame that I was thinking of doing the same including covering the end and sides. Just hate to waste the frame. My neighbor covered the roof on his with metal too. I really need the storage area. Thank you for posting it sure will help me.There may be different and better ways to rebuild a damaged roof, and our experiences should not be construed as professional advice.How to Repair and Seal a Rubber RV Roof - 1998 Bounder Motor Home
The camper was in pretty bad shape, and we knew it would need a roof rebuild. You can find that post here. Today we are going to show you how we rebuilt the interior and skinned out the ceiling. We kept the pebbled aluminum exterior, as it was pretty hard and expensive to find a replacement.
Justin cleaned the inside really well with acetone to remove any of the remaining adhesive. A couple of things to keep in mind for this step.
Acetone is nasty stuff. Make sure you wear a respirator while cleaning the aluminum. If you are in the market for a good respirator, we love this one. Like we mentioned in the previous post, the aluminum is really fragile, so make sure you are really careful with this step. Then it was time to start putting the roof all back together. We applied Eternabond tape to the inside of the seam to help ensure a good seal. We also had a couple of tears in the aluminum from the previous owner, so we gently flattened them with a rubber mallet and applied Eternabond to the inside of those as well.
We used the original boards as templates and cut new boards to replace them. While the construction adhesive was drying, we used a whole lotta clamps. This glue sticks to anything, and it foams and expands quite a bit, so it fills in all the little gaps.
It is awesome. We ditched the construction adhesive early on and used regular Gorilla Glue for the rest of the rebuild. After we attached the front and back boards, we started building the ceiling framework out of the 1 x 2 pine boards. We pretty much followed the original framework, but we did end up adding an extra support beam for structure. We used the Gorilla Glue to adhere the frame to the aluminum skin, and it worked really well. Originally, there had been only one steel brace on the board next to the ceiling vent.
We wanted a little more structure, so we added a few more. We replaced the steel brace it was old and rusted with aluminum and added braces along the other boards as well. These braces are just long pieces of aluminum we bought at Lowes and drilled holes in. Then we screwed one to each board. We used 40lb bags of water softener salt as weights to hold everything in place while the glue dried.
Once the framework was in place, we installed the insulation. We cut the R-TECH styrofoam sheets to size by scoring them with a utility knife, then snapping along the score line. Then we applied Gorilla Glue to the aluminum with a notched plastic trowel and placed the sheets—white side down—on the glue. Once the glue was dry, we removed the reflective plastic coating from the top side of the foam.
We did this so the glue would stick to the foam better when we installed the ceiling skin. Gorilla Glue actually does adhere to the reflective plastic, but the bond was much stronger on the exposed foam. This worked perfectly. After the spray foam was dry, we just used a cheap utility knife to trim it.